In spite of the fact travellers are pining to zip into town and sample the spoils at the trendy new Aria Hotel, which just celebrated its grand opening Thursday night, downtown Hotels like the El Cortez are rustling up business with a handful of travellers bent on exploring the historic side of the desert oasis.
For this reason, I booked a room at the Hotel, which is one of the oldest on the downtown Vegas strip.
In fact, the El Cortez is part of a curious footnote in Vegas history.
Avid fimgoers may recall that in the film Bugsy - a screen biopic about known mobster Bugsy Siegel starring Warren Beatty - the basic storyline focused on the gangster's visionary idea about building a gambling mecca in the desert and his hands-on involvement with the development and subsequent construction of the original Flamingo Hotel on the main strip.
In the end scenario, it was alleged in the big-studio production, that Bugsy Siegel was assassinated in his Beverly Hills mansion shortly after the grand opening (which fizzled out), as pay-back.
In Bugsy, the screenwriters led theatre-goers to believe that the Flamingo was not only Bugsy's first and last tie with with the Hotel industry, but the first Hotel built in the Nevada desert.
If that is the case, why does a plague embedded in cement on the sidewalk downtown state that the El Cortez was the first Hotel that Bugsy Siegel had an investment in?
Did the creative forces behind Bugsy Siegel exercise artistic (poetic) license to spice up the tale a tad to make it more entertaining to film buffs?
Or, is there some other reason why the historical facts remain clouded?
Inquiring minds want to know.
That issue aside, I was quite taken with the El Cortez Hotel, except for one incident which I'll discuss at the close of the post (to give fair warning to consumers-at-large).
Initially, I expected standard bill-of-fare at the older Hotel, but ended up with so much more than that on my plate.
I found the memorabilia in the Hotel Casino particularly fascinating, for starters.
When I strode through the low-key gambling hall with a glass of white wine in hand, I stopped here and there to take a gander at the faded old photographs of Bugsy and his pals mugging for the cameras.
In addition, a bevy of old stills captured the Vegas Freemont scene in its heyday long before the protective eye-catching tarp (which now features dazzling light shows nightly) was erected.
In fact, a couple of the photographs highlighted a rakish aspect to the architectural style featured (enchanced in some instances by cantelevered rooftops in vogue at the time) that I found downright appealing to my artistic sensibilities.
The old coupes parked in the street were a shining example of the the mob's love for exotic cars with smooth (almost sensual) lines that screamed out style and quality.
On the first day, I thought perhaps I made a misake about checking in to the El Cortez, though.
You see, when I first stepped into the elevator, I thought something was wrong with the lift.
I pushed the button for the floor I was supposed to be ensconced on but to no avail.
The lift wouldn't budge an inch.
Would I have to make a slow climb up a raft of stairs to the top?
Suddenly, after a moment's inspection, I realized that I needed to insert my room key to activate the elevator.
Cool!
Talk about feeling secure!
By the way, the El Cortez elevator - crafted in expensive dark mahogany and replete with mirrored ceiling and highly-polished brass appointments- was one of the fanciest elevators I've been in for quite a while, alright.
My suite was quite attractive, too.
The king-size bed was gigantic!
I could have hosted a small orgry in these spacious environs, no problem!
In addition, I fell in love with the sturdy desk (where I proceeded to pen my posts over the next couple of days), deep comfy armchairs, and full-length window framing a picturesque view of the Vegas skyline.
In fact,I felt quite relaxed and at home.
For good reason!
In the distance, especially at night with the lights on, the Stratosphere reminded me of the CN Tower in my home town, Toronto.
I was also thrilled with the care package I was treated to when I checked in, which included a fun book rife with discount coupons, and $5.00 free slot play.
Ah, the powers-that-be held me now in the palm of their hand.
Since I prefer quieter climbs off-the-beaten path, the El Cortez managed to offer up a perfect setting for me to think my thouhts and nurture my spiritual yearnings.
The hotel experience (especially in view of the costs involved) was a very satisfying one until check out time rolled around.
As I was about to hand in my room key - and settle accounts - I suddenly realized I forgot to cash in my winnings from a round or two of slot play the first night I settled in at the El Cortez.
So, I sauntered over to the redemption machine to cash out.
Imagine that, I was hardly at the kiosk a second or two, when a short fat guard strolled up and stood by my side casing my every move!
His conduct was politically & socially incorrect for two very good reasons.
For starters, my winnings were my business (and not his by any stretch of the imagination).
Moreover, his intimidating stance next to me on the Casino floor was simply classless, and amounted to a severe case of bad manners!
In the final analysis, even at the El Cortez, it appears management gets hot under the collar when a guest checks out with winnings in their pocket.
Yup.
The Casinos in Vegas try their best to sap 'ya dry!
In the final analysis, the bloom will be off the rose for tourists and gamblers alike, 'til Vegas becomes more customer-friendly and less greedy, for sure!
El Cortez lobby of yesteryear!
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