Legion of Honor
Elizabeth Taylor fond of Cartier sparklers!
For those who love expensive high-quality gems and magnificent (vulgar) baubbles - and exhibition at the Legion of Honor - may appeal to the senses.
The two-hundred dazzling pieces on display through April 18th were crafted by the undisputed "King" of jewellery, Jacques Cartier.
For a man, a "tank" wristwatch with the designer's John Henry etched on it, is the ultimate style statement.
Pricey, though.
Cartier first rose to exalted status during the Belle Epoque.
Today, glamorous (and just plain wealthy) women still reach for the ultimate in chic elegance.
Louis Francois Cartier (the son of a powder horn maker) founded Cartier in 1847.
When Maitre Picard passed to spirit that year, Cartier took over his well-known jewellery shop located at 31 Rue Montorgueil in Paris.
Four years later Napoleon III came to power (1851).
Through the Countess Nieuwerkerke and Princess Mathilde (cousins of the diminuitive dictator) Cartier was able to become a supplier to the court.
In 1859, he sold his first silver tea service to the Empress Eugenie.
At this juncture, Cartier relocated into rented quarters on the Boulevard des Italiens.
Cartier’s collection had a light and airy touch - in contrast to clunky overly-designed jewellery - of the era.
In fact Cartier's simple elegant designs - not only caught on with the rich and powerful - but would end up influencing the entire industry for decades to come.
In 1874, Louis Alfred (Cartier's son) took control of the business.
Alfred proceeded to stridently expand the family business considerably, especially in respect to the selection of watches, which Louis had only dabbled in previously.
Under Alfred's astute business accumen the name and reputation of Cartier spread beyond Paris.
Alfred brought his three sons - Louis, Pierre and Jacques - into the business in 1898 and changed the company name to Alfred Cartier & fils.
The different styles and strengths of the three brothers complemented each other - so much so - that the business flourished in leaps and bounds.
Louis took control of the Paris branch and moved it to Rue de la Paix in 1899.
Meanwhile, Jacques - who ran the London branch - traveled to the Persian Gulf in search of the finest pearls and gems.
The opening of the London branch was a timely one.
Shortly after the doors were opened, Queen Alexandra of England ordered 27 tiaras in honor of the coronation of King Edward VII in 1902.
Two years later, Edward appointed Cartier a royal warrant as supplier to the Royal Court of England.
By the end of the decade, Cartier was named royal supplier to the royal house of Spain, Portugal, Russia, Greece, Serbia, Belgium, Romania, Albania, Monaco (and the former French royal House of Orleans).
The Prince of Wales now affectionately referred to Cartier as the “Jeweller to Kings" and "King to Jewellers”.
Pierre ran the New York branch which was established in 1909.
He became a legendary figure in jewellery circles when he sold the famous Hope diamond for a staggering sum to a collector.
The Rockefellers, Whitneys, Astors, and Vanderbilts - to name a few - became devoted clients.
In 1917, Pierre moved to its current location at 653 Fifth Avenue.
Pierre Cartier acquired the mansion in exchange for $100 and a double-stranded natural pearl necklace valued at one million dollars.
In 1907, Cartier signed a contract with Edmond Jaeger to supply the movements for Cartier watches exclusively.
By now, Cartier (with branches in London, New York and Saint Petersburg) was becoming the world’s most successful watch company.
They introduced the Biagnoire and Tortue models (still crafted today).
In the early 1920s, Cartier and Edward Jaeger formed a joint company called Jaeger-LeCoultre, to produce movements solely for Cartier.
However, Cartier continued to use movements from Vacheron, Constantin, Audemars-Piguet, Movado and LeCoultre.
It was during this period that Cartier started adding a stamped four digit reference number on the underside of his watches.
Today, collectors refuse to accept a Cartier as original without these identifying numbers.
The dazzling collection on exhibit at the Legion of Honor features an eclectic mix of offerings - some once (or currently) owned - by the likes of megastar Elizabeth Taylor and the former Princess Grace of Monaco.
Catch it if you can!
Skinner Organ ConcertsLive performances of 19th and early 20th Century Music
Showtimes4 pm
Weekend BrunchFrench Dishes
(served all day)
Legion of Honor
Lincoln Park
34th Avenue & Clement St.
San Francisco, CA
Info: http://www.legionofhonor.org
